Mukho Nongoldam-gil: the story of a port village left in its steep alleys

Mukho: deep longing soaked into every steep alley

Back when Mukho Port was booming, fishermen climbed this steep slope carrying heavy crates of fish. Seawater dripping from the crates kept the dirt path muddy like a rice paddy, so people called this place Nongol.

The strong fishy smell that stung your nose was the smell of relief, meaning you could send your kids to school. But the sea sometimes swallowed boats, and many never came back, so locals would hold back their grief, saying "Half of Mukho's people have no grave."

The tough struggles and longing of those left behind now decorate Nongol-damgil as warm murals. The figure of "Wonder Halmae," who climbed up and down this path carrying heavy loads, lives on in the paintings too.

Right next door, Dojjaebigol holds touching stories: of goblin fires flickering on rainy nights, and of people with nowhere to go building huts on the hillside like swallows' nests, earning it the name "Tto Jebigol." Today it has become a grand Sky Walk where you stroll above the sea.

At night, the harbor lights settling below the lighthouse will gently warm your heart, like stars scattered across the ground.

If you want to go yourself

• Nongol-damgil — Donghae's signature scenic walk, where murals painted by villagers and artists together capture stories of the East Sea and moments of everyday life

We've gathered more Donghae stories and routes in the Donghae travel guide.