The pagoda tree of Haemieupseong Fortress in Seosan: what one tree inside the walls remembers

A tree over 300 years old that locals call the Hoya tree

The story of the Haemieupseong pagoda tree

Inside Haemieupseong Fortress in Seosan, next to the site of the prison where Catholics were held, stands an old pagoda tree. Locals call it the Hoya tree. Seosan City estimates the tree is more than 300 years old.^[1][3][4]

In the late Joseon period, Haemieupseong was home to the Hoseo Jwayeong garrison, and its commander had the authority to arrest and execute Catholics from the Naepo region. According to the Korea Heritage Service, during the Byeongin Persecution of 1866, believers were hung from this tree with wire and tortured, and many lost their lives. The Haemi International Shrine of Martyrs says the believers were tied to the tree by their hair.^[1][3][4]

Every day, believers were dragged out through the west gate and executed, and between 1866 and 1868, some were even buried alive in the fields west of the fortress. It's said that locals heard the believers' prayer, 'Jesus, Mary,' as 'Yeosu-meori,' which is why the spot is still called 'Yeosutgol' today. The shrine explains that of the martyrs, estimated in the thousands, only 132 are known by name and hometown.^[4][6]

On August 17, 2014, Pope Francis visited Haemi Martyrs' Shrine and met Asian bishops, and that afternoon he celebrated the closing Mass of Asian Youth Day (No. 6) at Haemieupseong Fortress. On November 29, 2020, the Holy See approved Haemi Martyrs' Shrine as an international shrine, and the shrine describes itself as the first and only international shrine in Korea.^[5][7][8]

The pagoda tree was designated a Chungcheongnam-do Monument in 2008, and since October 2024 it has also been listed as Chungcheongnam-do Natural Heritage in the Korea Heritage Service's register. Haemieupseong, where the tree stands, is a Joseon-era walled town designated a Historic Site in 1963.^[1][2][3]

Good to know before you go

Address

143 Nammun 2-ro, Haemi-myeon, Seosan-si, Chungcheongnam-do (inside Haemieupseong Fortress)

Hours

March–October: 05:00–21:00; November–February: 06:00–19:00 (per Seosan City)

Closed

Open year-round (per the Korea Tourism Organization's barrier-free travel guide)

Admission

Free (per VisitKorea info written January 2025)

Getting there

From Seosan Bus Terminal, city and intercity buses to Haemi take 15–20 minutes and run every 10–15 minutes. According to the Haemi International Shrine of Martyrs, there are also 6 buses a day from Seoul Nambu Terminal to the Haemi bus stop.

Good to know

The Haemi International Shrine of Martyrs (Yeosutgol, 13 Seongji 1-ro, Haemi-myeon, Seosan-si) is about 1 km from the fortress, so it's easy to visit both. It's still a pilgrimage site where Mass is held, so please keep quiet while you're there. For questions about Haemieupseong, contact the management office (041-661-8005).

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